Preparing for Winter Riding can be an "Abominable" Task!!
Let these tips make it seem more like a "Spring Fling"!!
The Tips:
Wide tires
with widely separated knobs work best on snow.
Boazobeanna
front and rear are the best tires we've found for soft snow.
Use low
pressure: start with 15-20 psi and experiment for yourself. Sometimes 5 psi
feels great.
Glue tires
to rims: Use tubular tire glue or any strong contact cement in about 6 six-inch
strips. Only glue one side. We always glue the right side so we don't have to
try to figure it out in the dark.
Snow Cat rims improve flotation, traction and
stability on snow or ice.
Studded
tires improve traction on ice.
Chains
improve traction on snow or ice but dig themselves in on soft snow and give a
rough, slow ride on pavement.
Bicycles
don't need to be "winterized" the way cars do. The loads on bicycle
bearings are so slight that just about any grease will protect them. We put low
temperature grease in bicycle bearings to make them easier to pedal and steer.
Some bicycles have grease in their freewheels that can cause problems when it
gets very cold. We can disassemble the freewheel, clean it out, and put small
amounts of low temperature grease in the right places. The grease we use is
good year round, it doesn't have to be changed for summer. So, if your bike
works in the cold, it's already "winterized."
On the
other hand, bicycles that are used regularly end up with more dirt and water
than grease in their bearings and yearly repacking will make them last a lot
longer So repack bearings in the fall with low temperature grease and call it
winterizing.
We test
greases for winter bike use by putting them outside when it's minus 40 degrees
(F) or colder. Some "low temperature " greases get a lot stiffer than
others at those temperatures. The best we've found so far is Lubriplate Mag-1.
We have a
lubricant for cables that stays liquid at minus 40 degrees (F). This can help
your bike shift better in winter.
Goretex
RideOn cables require no lubrication, so they work well no matter how cold they
are.
Most
states require bicycles to have a white light in front and a red light in back,
both visible at 500 feet, as well as side reflectors and a red rear reflector.
Red flashers that meet this requirement are available for about $16.
White
strobes are brighter and are visible at a greater distance but alone they don't
meet legal requirements. Also, they blink less frequently, making it harder for
drivers to see your position and direction.
Flashers
are best mounted on your bike or rear rack, where they can be aimed precisely,
rather than on clothes or packs, where they shift around. Many people install
more than one rear flasher.
Headlights
that meet the state requirements also start at about $16 These are basic,
non-rechargeable lights that will make you legal, let you be seen and help you
see under some conditions. This is often enough. However, people who ride
longer distances and in all conditions usually use more powerful lights. One
popular high-power system uses dual beams, produces 35 watts and costs $300.
There are many systems available between these extremes. Each system offers a
particular combination of power, endurance, weight and price.
Winter
trail riding requires surprisingly little light; 4-5 watts is plenty The snow
reflects well and there are no other light sources so your eyes can adapt to low
light. If the moon is bright or the clouds are reflecting light from the city,
try turning your light off. For long trail rides try installing a lower wattage
bulb to get more battery life. Make sure to match bulb and battery voltages.
Generator
lights don't work well in wet or snowy conditions and often don't give enough
light at slow winter speeds. The less sophisticated ones give no light when
you're not moving.
Systems
that power the taillight and headlight from the same battery may leave you
invisible from the rear if a wire breaks.without your knowing it. Independent
rear flashers are very reliable and can run for at least a year on 2 AA cells.
Reflectors
are available as vests, straps, tape and plastic pieces that mount to bicycles.
Clear
(white) reflectors return twice as much light as amber ones and more than three
times as much as red ones
Try to
pedal smoothly and relax your upper body, especially on ice and soft snow.
When the
bike starts going sideways, make small corrections rather than oversteering and
weaving down the trail. Practice riding in a straight line when the trail is
good so it's easier under bad conditions.
On some
soft trails, higher speeds take less effort than lower speeds.because your
tires sink into the snow less at higher speed.
When
riding in a group on soft trails, have the weaker, less skilled or badly
equipped riders lead so they can use the trail before the better riders cut it
up.
Snow machines
leave the center of the trail soft. Their best tracks are left by their skis,
if you can ride straight enough to use them.
Dogsleds
leave harder, smoother trails than snow machines.
Road ice
can provide lots of traction or very little. Learn how the different types look
and sound. Try not to brake hard on the slippery sort, or if you must, use only
your rear brake. Watch for dry patches where you can do your braking or
turning.
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